Eryri (Snowdonia) and Wales for Outdoor Lovers: Our Favourite Walks, Wild Camping Rules and Campervan Tips

Are you looking for big mountains, quiet ridges and wild camping spots without travelling to Scotland? Then Wales is the answer! Eryri (Snowdonia) in the north has the highest peaks in Wales. Bannau Brycheiniog (the Brecon Beacons) in the south has rolling ridges, reservoirs and waterfalls.

We have visited Wales on several trips: a rainy Easter weekend, a 10-day campervan trip and a wild camping weekend in the Black Mountains. So in this guide I share our favourite walks, the real wild camping rules and our campervan tips. Which part of Wales will you explore first?

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Quick answer

• Best quiet big hike in Eryri: the southern ridges of the Carneddau from Llyn Ogwen. It is 14 km with 1,000 m of ascent and three summits over 970 m.
• Best for solitude: Arenig Fawr, with a tiny bothy by Llyn Arenig. It is a 14 km circular walk with 760 m of ascent.
• Best in the south: Waun Fach and the Grwyne Fawr reservoir in the Black Mountains, or the easy Sugar Loaf.
• Wild camping: there is no right to wild camp in Wales. Both national parks say you need the landowner's permission. Use campsites, or camp high and discreetly with permission.
• Campervans: staying overnight in a car park in a campervan is not permitted in Eryri. Use campsites, or Gwynedd's pilot "Arosfan" stopovers if you have a self-contained motorhome.
• Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon): Pen-y-Pass car park must be pre-booked in the busy season, so the Sherpa'r Wyddfa bus is often easier.

Eryri or Snowdonia? The new names

The National Park Authority decided in November 2022 to use the Welsh names Eryri for Snowdonia and Yr Wyddfa for Snowdon. It confirmed the change in November 2024. In the south, the Brecon Beacons National Park has been called Bannau Brycheiniog National Park since 17 April 2023.

Best walks in Eryri (Snowdonia)

The southern ridges of the Carneddau

This was probably our favourite hike on our campervan road trip. The Carneddau are right next to the busy Ogwen Valley, but they were so much quieter than Yr Wyddfa.

We started from a lay-by on the A5 near Llyn Ogwen, which was free when we went. Almost straight away we had the iconic view of Tryfan, with little waterfalls on the Afon Lloer in front. Then we scrambled up the east ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen (978 m). It is a grade 1 scramble and it wasn't too challenging. From there we continued to Carnedd Dafydd (1,040 m) and Carnedd Llewelyn (1,064 m), the second-highest summit in Wales. We came down past the Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir, where I had a lovely paddle to cool my tired feet.

• Distance: 14 km with about 1,000 m of total ascent.
• Difficulty: strenuous, with two short scrambles. The descent to Bwlch Eryl Farchog felt a bit tricky with our backpacks.
• Bus: the TrawsCymru T10 runs along the A5 through the Ogwen Valley between Bangor and Corwen.

Read the full route in our guide to hiking the southern ridges of the Carneddau.

Arenig Fawr and its bothy

If you want to escape the crowds completely, Arenig Fawr is a real hidden gem. Beside the reservoir there is a cute little bothy. We were really grateful for it, as it was a very windy day. On the summit the wind reached 50 mph, and I think my hiking poles saved me from being blown off the mountain!

• Distance: 14 km (8.7 miles) circular with 760 m of ascent.
• Tips: bring a map, as the south ridge is not always obvious. Gaiters help on the boggy sections.

All the details are in our post about hiking to Arenig Fawr bothy and mountain.

Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)

Yr Wyddfa is 1,085 m high and there are six main paths to the top. We planned to climb it on our Easter trip. Unfortunately it was rainy, so we only did a section of the Watkin Path, which was really pretty. We also saw many cars with fines that had parked next to the road. The most popular loop goes up the Pyg Track and down the Miners' Track from Pen-y-Pass. I have researched it in detail in our Yr Wyddfa Pyg Track and Miners' Track guide.

Cadair Idris, Trawsfynydd and Barmouth

On a foggy day we parked at Dôl Idris car park and did a short walk around the lake below Cadair Idris. We didn't attempt the summit, so it is another reason to come back. Lake Trawsfynydd has nice walking paths too, and Barmouth has a lovely beach with sand dunes. Read more about that trip in our weekend getaway in Snowdonia National Park.

Best walks in Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons)

Waun Fach and Grwyne Fawr reservoir

We drove 4 hours to the Black Mountains on an April bank holiday weekend and arrived at the Mynydd Du (Black Mountain) car park by 9 am. Our circular walk went up Pen y Gadair Fawr and Waun Fach, where we even found some snow near the trig point! Then we came down along the Grwyne Fawr stream to the bothy and the reservoir. Read the full story of our wild camping trip in the Brecon Beacons.

• Distance: 16.5 km with 740 m of ascent. It took us 6 hours with plenty of stops.

Sugar Loaf and Lord Hereford's Knob

The next day my knee was hurting, so we chose the Sugar Loaf. It is popular and family-friendly, and our 7.5 km circular had 375 m of ascent. A few years earlier we hiked to Lord Hereford's Knob (Twmpa, 690 m) from our campsite in Glasbury before our River Wye canoe trip. It was 21 km return and really quiet. If you drive, start from Gospel Pass for a much shorter walk. Read our Lord Hereford's Knob walk and our River Wye canoe camping trip from Glasbury.

We haven't done the famous walks in the central and southern parts of the park yet. However, I have researched them in detail. At 886 m, Pen y Fan is the highest mountain in South Wales, and our Pen y Fan Horseshoe walk guide covers all four summits. For the Four Falls Trail and Sgwd yr Eira, see our guide to the best waterfall hikes in the UK.

Wild camping in Wales: the rules

The short answer is that wild camping is not a right in Wales. In the UK, the right to wild camp only applies in Scotland and on the Dartmoor commons in England.

• Eryri: the National Park Authority says wild camping is not permitted anywhere in Eryri without prior permission from the landowner or farmer. Camping in car parks or on roadside verges is not allowed at any time.
• Bannau Brycheiniog: the park's camping page says wild camping is illegal without the landowner's permission. It suggests designated campsites instead, including some remote ones.
• Fires: no fires and no disposable barbecues.

If you do have permission, the Eryri guidance is simple. Camp high and away from houses and farms. Pitch late, stay one night only and use one or two small tents, not a group. Keep toilet waste at least 30 m from water and paths, and bury it at least 15 cm deep. Take all your rubbish home, and don't wash with soap in streams or lakes. If a landowner asks you to move on, do it without arguing.

Our wild camping tips for Wales

Our spot at Grwyne Fawr was 4.5 km from the car park with 240 m of ascent. That was far enough not to bother anyone, but close enough to feel reassuring, as we were still beginners. By the evening there were six tents around the reservoir, so don't expect solitude on a bank holiday!

It rained for half an hour as soon as we pitched, and the next morning our tent was covered in frost. So pack for winter even in April. A warm sleeping mat makes a huge difference on cold ground. The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite is the mat I recommend in my wild camping kit list.

We were the first to pack up in the morning, and of course we carried out all our rubbish. Please do the same.

Welsh hills can also be remote. Carnedd Llewelyn is one of the furthest peaks from a road in the UK. A satellite messenger lets you send an SOS without phone signal. The Garmin inReach Mini is one I recommend in my guide to the best personal locator beacons.

Bothies in Wales

Wales has a few bothies looked after by the Mountain Bothies Association. Arenig Fawr bothy sleeps 2, or 3 at most, and Grwyne Fawr suits three people at most. Fires outside are not allowed at either. Take a tent in case they are full, and follow the bothy code.

Campervan and car camping tips for Wales

In August 2020 we hired a small campervan from Bumble Campers for a 10-day trip around Snowdonia. It was the size of a big seven-seater car, so it was easy to drive on narrow mountain roads and parking was not an issue. It had a stove, a sink and a fridge, and we stayed at campsites. I couldn't confirm their current vans or prices, so check before you book. Here is our Bumble Campers trip.

Things to know before you go (as of 2026):

• No overnight stays in car parks in Eryri. The National Park Authority says staying overnight at a car park in a campervan or caravan is not permitted. Most official campsites welcome campervans.
• Arosfan stopovers: Gwynedd Council is piloting four motorhome stopovers at Cricieth, Llanberis, Pwllheli and Caernarfon. They cost £16.50 a night, for up to two nights in a row. They are only for self-contained motorhomes with an on-board toilet, and you can't book them.
• Book campsites early in peak season (April to September).
• Read the signs. In the Black Mountains we slept one night in our car. Most of the places we looked at had "no overnight camping" signs. Please respect them.

For your own car, read our tips on car camping in the UK. On our Easter trip we went glamping at Dinas campsite near Llanbedr and loved it. As of 2026, it offers camping pods, static caravans and tent pitches.

Getting around without a car

The Sherpa'r Wyddfa buses link the starts of the Yr Wyddfa paths with Llanberis, Nant Peris, Betws-y-Coed, Caernarfon, Bangor and Porthmadog. Check the timetable on the Sherpa'r Wyddfa website or Traveline Cymru before you travel. For the Carneddau and Tryfan, the T10 runs through the Ogwen Valley. In the Black Mountains, the T14 to Hay-on-Wye stopped running in August 2025.

Rainy day ideas

Wales can be very wet, so pack good waterproofs! On our rainy Easter weekend we went to Bounce Below at Zip World Llechwedd in Blaenau Ffestiniog. It is a huge trampoline playground inside an old mine, and one of the coolest places I have ever been to. As of 2026 it costs from £29 plus a £5 booking fee.

FAQ

Is wild camping legal in Wales?

No. There is no right to wild camp in Wales. Both Eryri and Bannau Brycheiniog National Parks say you need the landowner's permission first. Camping in car parks and on roadside verges is not allowed.

Can I sleep in my campervan in Eryri?

Not in car parks, as the National Park Authority does not permit it. Use a campsite, or one of Gwynedd's Arosfan stopovers if you have a self-contained motorhome.

What is the best quiet hike in Eryri?

I recommend the southern ridges of the Carneddau. For real solitude, try Arenig Fawr.

Do I need to book parking for Yr Wyddfa?

At Pen-y-Pass, yes, in the busy season. It is pay and display over the winter and goes back to pre-booking at Easter 2027. The Sherpa'r Wyddfa bus is the easier option.

Did you find this useful? Save it for later or share it with a friend who loves the Welsh mountains. Have you wild camped in Wales? Let me know your favourite spot in the comments!