Pen y Fan Horseshoe Walk: A Complete Guide to the Four Summits of Bannau Brycheiniog

Would you rather share the summit of Pen y Fan with hundreds of people on "the Motorway", or reach it along a wild, quiet ridge? At 886 m, Pen y Fan is the highest mountain in South Wales and the star of Bannau Brycheiniog, the national park that used to be called the Brecon Beacons. Most people climb it on the short, busy path from Pont ar Daf. However, the Pen y Fan horseshoe is a much bigger adventure. It links four summits: Corn Du, Pen y Fan, Cribyn and Fan y Big.

We have hiked and wild camped in the Black Mountains, in the eastern part of the park, and we loved it. But we haven't done the horseshoe yet. It is high on our bucket list, so I've researched every detail for you.

The loop starts in the forest at Taf Fechan, south of the main summits. You climb onto a long escarpment above the Neuadd reservoirs, walk north to Corn Du and Pen y Fan, and then go up and down over Cribyn and Fan y Big. It is a tough day with a lot of climbing, but the ridge views are stunning all the way round.

At a glance

• Distance: about 16 km (10 miles). Some versions are up to 17 km
• Elevation gain: around 900 m, over several climbs
• Allow 5–7 hours, plus stops
• Difficulty: Challenging. Long, with steep climbs and descents and exposed edges, but no scrambling
• Route type: Circular
• Start/finish: Pont Cwmyfedwen car park in Taf Fechan Forest (grid ref SO 042 164)
• Summits: Corn Du (873 m), Pen y Fan (886 m), Cribyn (795 m) and Fan y Big (719 m)
• Best season: May–September. In winter it can be icy and snowy
• Prices: free to walk, and parking at Taf Fechan Forest is free
• Toilets: none on the route or at the start. The nearest are at the National Trust car park at Pont ar Daf on the A470
• Suitable for children: only for fit, experienced older kids. Families are better on the shorter route from Pont ar Daf
• Dogs: keep them on a lead, as sheep graze on the hills all year

Route description

Taf Fechan Forest to Lower Neuadd Reservoir

From the Pont Cwmyfedwen car park, follow the lane and tracks north towards the Lower Neuadd Reservoir. Part of this section follows the Taff Trail. Cross the reservoir dam. Ahead of you, the whole horseshoe opens up, with Pen y Fan and Cribyn at the head of the valley.

The climb to Graig Fan Ddu

From the dam, the path climbs steeply west onto the ridge of Graig Fan Ddu. This is the first big climb of the day and a real warm-up for your legs! Some walkers also visit the trig point on Twyn Mwyalchod (642 m) first. Once you are on the ridge, the walking gets easier. Follow the edge of the escarpment north. The views over the reservoir and the valley below are lovely.

Corn Du and Pen y Fan

The ridge leads you to the col of Bwlch Duwynt. Here you join the busy path coming up from Pont ar Daf. From the col, it is a short climb of about 50 m to Corn Du (873 m). Then follow the edge down to a small saddle and climb another 50 m or so to Pen y Fan (886 m).

Both summits have Bronze Age burial cairns, which were rebuilt to protect them. On a clear day you can see far across South and Mid Wales. Be careful near the northern edge. The drop is really steep. Pen y Fan is also used for the selection of UK Special Forces, so don't be surprised if you meet soldiers carrying huge packs.

Down to the col and up Cribyn

Leave Pen y Fan on the steep, stepped path heading east towards Cribyn. Some walkers call it Jacob's Ladder. It is hard on the knees, so I recommend walking poles here. From the col, the climb up Cribyn (795 m) is steep and sustained. Many walkers say it is the hardest part of the horseshoe. The good news is that the view back to Pen y Fan from the top is one of the best of the day.

Bwlch ar y Fan and Fan y Big

Descend the eastern slope of Cribyn to the pass of Bwlch ar y Fan, also known as the Gap. Then climb again to Fan y Big (719 m). It is about 120 m of ascent. Near the top there is a flat rock ledge sticking out over the edge, known as the Diving Board. It is a famous photo spot. But please be careful, as it hangs over a big drop!

Shortcut: if you are tired at the Gap, you can skip Fan y Big and follow the old Gap road, a rough stony track, south down the valley past the Neuadd reservoirs back to the start.

Back to Taf Fechan

From Fan y Big, follow the eastern ridge south above the Neuadd valley. After a while, easy grassy slopes take you down to the valley track. Follow it back to the car park at Taf Fechan Forest. This last part is gentle, so it is a nice way to finish a big day.

How to get there

By car and parking

Taf Fechan Forest is about 13 miles south of Brecon. From Brecon, take the A40 towards Abergavenny. After about 5 miles, turn right towards Talybont-on-Usk, then follow the signs through Pencelli towards Talybont Reservoir. You can also reach it on minor roads from Merthyr Tydfil via Pontsticill. The lanes are narrow, so drive slowly.

Parking: Natural Resources Wales runs two free car parks in Taf Fechan Forest, Owl's Grove (SO 048 162) and Pont Cwmyfedwen (SO 042 164). Overnight parking is not allowed. The postcode CF48 2UT covers a wide area, so use the grid reference or what3words instead. There is also a small free parking area closer to the Lower Neuadd Reservoir, at the end of the narrow lane. It fills early at weekends and on bank holidays, so arrive before 9 am in summer.

If you start from the A470 side instead, the National Trust car park at Pont ar Daf charges £7.50 per car. It is free for National Trust members, and the charge applies 24 hours a day.

Public transport

Unfortunately, there is no bus to Taf Fechan Forest. The car-free option is the TrawsCymru T4 bus between Merthyr Tydfil and Brecon. Get off at Storey Arms on the A470. From the south, take the train from Cardiff to Merthyr Tydfil and change to the T4 there. In summer 2026 the T4 ran hourly between Brecon and Merthyr on Sundays and bank holidays too. From Storey Arms, Visit Wales suggests a longer circular route of about 18.5 km (7–8 hours) over Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn and round via Taf Fechan. Check Traveline Cymru for current times.

By bike

The Taff Trail and National Cycle Network Route 8 pass through Taf Fechan Forest. So you can cycle to the start from Merthyr Tydfil or Brecon. Bikes aren't for the ridge, though, so lock up at the car park.

Permits, fees & opening times

• Permits: none needed. Pen y Fan and the surrounding land are owned by the National Trust, and you are free to walk the paths.
• Parking: free at Taf Fechan Forest (as of 2026). Pont ar Daf costs £7.50 per car, £10 per motorhome or minibus and £12 per coach.
• Closures: Natural Resources Wales can close its car parks at short notice, for example after storm damage. Check their Taf Fechan Forest page before you go.
• Toilets: only at Pont ar Daf. There are none on any Pen y Fan route.

When to go

In my opinion, May to September is the best time for the full horseshoe. The days are long, and the ground is usually drier. Early autumn is lovely too, with fewer people and golden colours on the hills.

Weekends and bank holidays are really busy around Pen y Fan, especially on the main path from Pont ar Daf. So try to go on a weekday and start early. The horseshoe from Taf Fechan is much quieter until you join the main path at Bwlch Duwynt.

The summit is often 4–5°C colder than the car park, before you even think about wind chill. In winter the ridge can be icy or covered in snow, and the steep descents become serious. Always check the Met Office mountain forecast and MWIS before you set off. On hot summer days, take lots of water and sun cream, as there is no shade at all.

Hiking with kids

Suitable for children: the full horseshoe is a long, tough day. I think it only suits fit, experienced older kids who have already done a few mountain walks. Keep them close on the summits, as the edges drop away steeply.

• Easier option: the short route to Pen y Fan from Pont ar Daf (about 6.5 km return, 3–4 hours) is much better for families. Visit Wales even says small children can manage it.
• Pushchairs: not suitable on any route to the summit.
• Carriers: possible on the Pont ar Daf path, but I wouldn't carry a toddler on the full horseshoe. The descents are steep and long.
• Keep them engaged: count the summits, look out for the Diving Board on Fan y Big and tell them the summits have 4,000-year-old burial cairns.

What to pack

• Walking boots with good grip
• Walking poles for the steep steps down from Pen y Fan and Cribyn
• Waterproof jacket and trousers, plus a warm layer, hat and gloves
• OS Explorer OL12 (Brecon Beacons National Park, Western and Central areas) or a navigation app, plus a compass
• Plenty of water and food, as there is nowhere to buy anything on the route
• Sun cream and a hat in summer
• A fully charged phone

For winter walks or quieter days on the hills, I also suggest carrying an emergency beacon. The McMurdo FastFind 220 is the budget pick in my guide to personal locator beacons.

Safety tips

• Stay away from the edges. The northern faces of Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn are very steep.
• Know your escape route. From the Gap you can drop down the valley towards the reservoirs if the weather turns.
• Navigation: in cloud, the ridges and paths can be confusing. Carry a map and compass and know how to use them.
• Tell someone your route and when you expect to be back.
• Keep dogs on a lead around sheep.
• In an emergency, call 999 and ask for Police, then Mountain Rescue.

Leave no trace & sustainable tips

• Stick to the paths. Hundreds of thousands of people climb Pen y Fan every year, and the National Trust works hard to repair the erosion.
• Take all your rubbish home, including fruit peel.
• Park only in proper car parks. Never block lanes, gates or passing places.
• Use the T4 bus if you can, and do the walk from Storey Arms.
• Refill your water bottle before you go. Visit Wales recommends using Refill points.
• Follow the Countryside Code and leave gates as you find them.

Where to stay & eat nearby

• Brecon is the best base. It is a lovely market town with hotels, B&Bs, pubs, cafés and supermarkets. It is also on the T4 bus route.
• Talybont-on-Usk is a small village on the way to Taf Fechan Forest, by the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal. It has pubs and places to stay.
• Merthyr Tydfil is close to the southern side of the park and has the nearest railway station.
• There are lots of campsites, bunkhouses and holiday cottages in the area. Book early for summer weekends and bank holidays, as they fill up quickly.

More to explore nearby

• The Four Falls Trail: one of the best waterfall walks in Wales, in the south-west of the park. It is in my list of the best waterfall hikes in the UK.
• The Black Mountains: quieter hills on the east side of the park, with walks like Lord Hereford's Knob.
• Talybont Reservoir: a peaceful spot for a short walk or a bike ride.
• Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal: great for a gentle towpath walk from Brecon or Talybont-on-Usk.
• Taf Fechan River Walk: an easy 1.9 km woodland loop from the same car parks, nice for little legs.

FAQ

How long is the Pen y Fan horseshoe?

The loop from Taf Fechan Forest is about 16 km (10 miles) with around 900 m of ascent. Most people take 5–7 hours.

Is the Pen y Fan horseshoe hard?

Yes, it is a challenging day. There is no scrambling, but there are several steep climbs and descents. The climb up Cribyn is the toughest part.

Where do you park for the Pen y Fan horseshoe?

Park at the free Natural Resources Wales car parks in Taf Fechan Forest, Pont Cwmyfedwen or Owl's Grove. There is also a small free parking area near the Lower Neuadd Reservoir.

Can you do the Pen y Fan horseshoe without a car?

Not from Taf Fechan, as no bus goes there. Instead, take the T4 bus to Storey Arms and walk a longer loop over Corn Du, Pen y Fan and Cribyn.

Is there a toilet on Pen y Fan?

No. The only toilets are at the Pont ar Daf car park on the A470. There are none at Taf Fechan Forest or on the hill.

Have you walked the Pen y Fan horseshoe? Which summit was your favourite? Let me know in the comments!