Ladder of Kotor & Kotor Fortress Hike: A Complete Guide to San Giovanni and the Old Mule Track

Look up from Kotor's old town and you will see the city walls zigzagging up the bare mountain behind it. At the top sits the Castle of San Giovanni (St John), around 280 m above the bay. Next to it, another path snakes up the slope in dozens of tight bends. This is the Ladder of Kotor, the old mule track that once linked Kotor with Njeguši and Cetinje. Which one would you choose?

We haven't been to Kotor yet, but it's high on our bucket list, so I've researched every detail for you. I love a fortress climb with a view. Our hike up to Starigrad Fortress in Omiš was only 262 m, but it was quite exhausting, and the views made it so worth it. Kotor looks like the same thing, only bigger!

In this guide I cover both walks: the paid path up the walls to San Giovanni, and the free Ladder of Kotor up to the Krstac pass. There is one big change in 2026. The famous "window" shortcut between the Ladder and the fortress is no longer an option, so read the route section before you go.

At a glance

• Fortress walk: about 1,350–1,400 steps and around 280 m of climbing from the old town to San Giovanni.
• Ladder of Kotor: about 6.4 km each way (12.8 km return) to the top near the Krstac pass at about 940 m, with more than 70 switchbacks.
• Allow 1.5–2 hours for the fortress, and 4–6 hours for the full Ladder of Kotor and back.
• Difficulty: the fortress is Moderate (steep steps, lots of heat). The full Ladder is Challenging, with almost 1,000 m of climbing on loose gravel.
• Route type: both are out and back.
• Prices: €15 per person for the fortress walls (2026). The Ladder of Kotor is free.
• Best season: March to June and September to November. Summer is very hot.
• Toilets: in the old town only. There are none on either path.
• Suitable for children: the fortress, yes, for kids who can manage a lot of steps. The full Ladder is best for older, fit kids.

Route description

The fortress walk to San Giovanni

The official way up starts inside the old town. Follow the signs to the ticket checkpoint at the foot of the walls. From here, a stone path and steps zigzag up the hillside inside the walls. There is no shade, so start early.

About halfway up you reach the little Church of Our Lady of Remedy, built in 1518. It sits on a ledge with a gorgeous view over the red roofs and the bay. If it is very hot or you are with little ones, this is a good place to turn back.

Above the church the path keeps climbing to the ruins of San Giovanni. People have fortified this hilltop since Illyrian times. The walls you see today were mostly built when Venice ruled Kotor, from 1420. The whole defence system is about 4.5 km long, and it is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most people take 45–60 minutes to walk up and about 30 minutes to come down. Return the same way.

The Ladder of Kotor

The Ladder of Kotor starts just outside the old town walls, near the Škurda river. From the road you will see the path zigzagging up the mountain in front of you. It is marked with red and white paint on the rocks. I suggest saving the trailhead in your map app before you go.

The path climbs steadily on rocky, loose gravel. After about 30–45 minutes, a side path branches right towards the small church of Sveti Juraj, below the back of the fortress. This used to be the start of the famous shortcut into the fortress through a window in the walls. However, it is not an option any more (see below), so continue up the Ladder instead.

About 2 km from the start, there is a little farmhouse where locals have sold homemade cheese and drinks. It sounds like a lovely place for a break, but I couldn't confirm its opening times, so don't count on it. Above this, the path leaves the trees and the switchbacks are fully exposed to the sun. The views over the Bay of Kotor get better with every bend.

The trail finally meets the old Austrian serpentine road near the Krstac pass, at about 940 m. One hiking guide says the last kilometre through the pine forest isn't really worth it, so you can turn round before it. Then come back down the same way. Take it slowly, as the loose gravel is slippery on the descent.

The window into the fortress in 2026

For years, hikers on the Ladder used a hole in the fortress wall (with a wooden ladder) to get into San Giovanni without paying. In May 2026, the Municipality of Kotor walled up the openings that people were using as unofficial entrances. The municipality said people had been injured climbing in with improvised ladders and ropes, and that the old walls were being damaged. Hiking guides updated in October 2026 report that the link from the Ladder into the fortress is closed.

So treat the two walks as separate hikes. Do the Ladder as an out-and-back, and enter the fortress through the official entrance with a ticket. Please don't climb through any gaps in the walls!

How to get there

Getting to Kotor

Kotor sits on the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro. Tivat Airport is only about 5 km away, with flights from London and other European cities, and many extra flights in summer. Podgorica Airport is about 65 km away and has flights all year. Buses link Kotor with other towns on the coast, and many visitors arrive on cruise ships.

By car and parking

Parking: the old town is car-free. One hiking guide suggests the car park near the Kamelija shopping centre, which is walkable to both trails. Spaces fill up quickly in summer, so arrive early.

On foot

Both walks start from the old town, so if you stay in Kotor you can simply walk to the start.

Permits, fees & opening times

• Fortress ticket: €15 per person. Kotor's municipal assembly introduced the €15 fee for foreign visitors, and people living in Montenegro don't pay. Reports differ on whether you can pay by card at the gate, so bring cash in euros too. Only buy at the official checkpoint, not from street sellers.
• Opening hours (as reported for 2026): 8 am to 6 pm from 1 March to 30 April, 7 am to 8 pm from 1 May to 30 September and 8 am to 5 pm from 1 October to 30 November.
• Winter: from December to February the ticket booths are closed, and you climb at your own risk.
• Night: it is forbidden to be on the walls after 10 pm, and you can be fined.
• Ladder of Kotor: free, with no permit needed.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best times. In July and August the heat on these shadeless slopes can be brutal, so start at opening time or go in the late afternoon. Cruise ship crowds usually build from mid-morning, so an early start helps with the crowds too.

For photos, the morning light on the bay is lovely. If you climb the Ladder in the afternoon, you will be walking into the setting sun on the way down.

Hiking with kids

Suitable for children: the fortress walk is a fun challenge for kids who are happy to climb a lot of steps. Count them on the way up! The church halfway up is a good goal for younger children.

• Pushchairs: not suitable on either walk, as there are steps and loose stones.
• Carriers: a back carrier works, but take care on the uneven steps and bring shade for little ones.
• The Ladder: the full climb to Krstac is too long and hot for most young children. However, the first few switchbacks give you great views for little effort.
• Heat: kids overheat quickly here, so bring plenty of water and go early.

What to pack

• Walking shoes with good grip, as the gravel and polished steps are slippery
• At least 1.5 litres of water per person for the fortress, and much more for the Ladder
• Sun hat, sunglasses and sun cream, as there is almost no shade
• Euros in cash for the fortress ticket
• A head torch if you plan to start before sunrise
• An offline map. The whole Ladder trail is on Google Maps

There are no shops once you leave the old town, so buy water and snacks before you start. I always pack plenty of snacks for a long climb like the Ladder. Nuts, energy bars and dried fruit are easy to carry, and you can find more ideas in my guide to the best food for expeditions.

Safety tips

• Beat the heat. Heat exhaustion is a real risk in summer. Take breaks and drink often.
• Watch your footing. The steps are worn and uneven, and the Ladder has loose gravel, especially on the way down.
• Don't climb through gaps in the walls. It is dangerous, and the openings have been sealed.
• Keep away from the edges of the old walls, where the drops are big.
• In an emergency, call 112.

Leave no trace & sustainable tips

• Pay for your ticket. The money goes towards looking after the walls, the paths and the fortress.
• Use the official entrance. The municipality says climbing through the openings has weakened the old mortar and vaults.
• Don't cut the switchbacks on the Ladder, as it causes erosion.
• Take all your litter home, including plastic bottles.
• Avoid peak cruise hours to spread the crowds.
• Support local: buy your snacks and souvenirs from small shops in Kotor.

Where to stay & eat nearby

• Kotor old town is the most atmospheric place to stay, and both walks start right on your doorstep. There are lots of restaurants and cafés inside the walls.
• Perast, a few kilometres northwest along the bay, is a quieter and really pretty alternative.
• Tivat is handy for the airport.

More to explore nearby

• Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks: a cute little town with an island church built on an artificial island, the only one in the Adriatic.
• Kotor–Lovćen cable car: since 2024, a cable car has taken visitors from the coast up to Lovćen National Park in about 11 minutes.
• Njeguši: a village on the slopes of Mount Lovćen and the birthplace of the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty, which once ruled Montenegro.
• The Kotor serpentine road: the old road from Kotor up towards Njeguši climbs the mountain in a long series of hairpin bends. It is a stunning drive.
• Dubrovnik: just over the border in Croatia. Read my post about whether to walk Dubrovnik's city walls or take the cable car.

FAQ

How much does it cost to climb Kotor Fortress?

The ticket for the walls and San Giovanni costs €15 per person in 2026. People living in Montenegro don't pay, and the booths are closed from December to February.

How long does it take to climb to Kotor Fortress?

Most people take 45–60 minutes to walk up the 1,350 or so steps and about 30 minutes to come down. Allow 1.5–2 hours in total.

Is the Ladder of Kotor free?

Yes, the Ladder of Kotor is a free hiking trail. However, it is a separate walk, and you can no longer use it to get into the fortress without a ticket.

Can you still enter Kotor Fortress through the window?

No. In May 2026 the Municipality of Kotor sealed the openings people used as unofficial entrances. Use the official entrance in the old town.

How long is the Ladder of Kotor hike?

It is about 6.4 km one way from the old town to the top near the Krstac pass, with around 940 m of climbing. Allow 4–6 hours return.

Have you climbed to Kotor Fortress or hiked the Ladder? Let me know in the comments!